|Dean, I acquired a large osage log, over 24"
diameter at its base, perhaps 8- 10' long. By the
time I acquired it, it had dried out for several
month. It was fairly straight, but when I tried to
split it, I never got a clean split, the grain had a
fair amount of twist in it. Out of frustration, I finally
took it to a friend who had a sawmill. We made
planks, flat sawn, 8/4 thick. Question, are flat
sawn osage planks any good for making a bow if
only used on the compression side, that is, backed
with either bamboo or perhaps hickory? How
worried do you have to be about runout on the
compression side? - Phillip Bryan 09/15/2011, ID=3111
Runout (the side to side movement of the grain) can be a problem on sawn slats. I try to stay away from anything that travels left to right more than an inch for ever twelve inches of length.
|Hello , I picked up your DVD on making bamboo
backed bows and Kit at the Comptons tradional
Rendezvous. I am wondering if I need to change any of
the measurements of the pattern from the if I use
hickory instead of Osage. Hickory is very acessable
here in Michigan. Thanks for your time - Pete Haueter 07/08/2011, ID=3099
Shagbark and osage will yield approximately the same weight at similar dimensions. Pignut would make a better bow than shagbark, but you'll need to increase the dimensions slightly. How much, I cannot say, but I'd add both depth and width, a little more depth than width.
|Dean, I just watched your Bamboo-backed bow video
three times. I love everything about it, and the bows
you make are beautiful. I am working at a camp for
young people and am hoping to put together a bow-
building workshop at some point. My question is in
regard to the handle section. Do you cut a rest into the
handle? There was nothing mentioned in the video.
Thanks! - dan 06/12/2011, ID=3094
Thanks for the kind words, Dan, but no, I do not cut a shelf or rest into the handle. Hurts every time I see one done that way, not because it's a genuflection in the direction of production fiberglass archery (which it is), but because it's just wrong, like stealing, only to a magnitude that could jeopardize your immortal soul. In other words, God's against it, too.
|I plan to make a bow with 1/8th inch hickory
backing, 1/8th inch core of Ipe, and a tapered 5/8s
to 3/8s piece of eastern maple for the belly. The
bow in question is a reflex/deflex design that is 70
inches long and 1 1/2 wide to start. I would like
this bow to have a 60 pound draw weight. I would
like to know if there is a better wood to use for the
belly and if My thicknesses seem to be a good start.
Also when cutting the width I plan to go 1 1/4 from
fade to 5/8th at the end. Any of your input would
be appreciated. - Joe 01/20/2011, ID=3074
Belly wood choice is suspect, esp. considering the limb design, which does not distribute stress evenly along the limb length. I'd rather see you use ipe or hickory.
|Dean, I've made about 50 of your rattan kids bows
to give away at our local archery club, thank you for
providing that information on how to build those.
I'm currently helping a young lady build a self-bow
for a school project and she would like to make a
larger version of the rattan kid’s bow. Using the
same technique have you built bows any longer
than 48”. I guessing we’ll be shooting for about 60”
with a 20lb pull. I’m wondering if the same
diameter rattan would work or if I need to go up a
size? Thanks in advance. Matt - Matt Dworak 10/26/2010, ID=3057
Matt, that's a commendable and generous gesture. Can you imagine the respect archery would command if each of us did his part to share its lore?
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